AUKEY USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable

Tough Enough for Tug-of-War!

AUKEY USB-C Cables.

Front first feel these cables are very solid in construction and rather thick material wise. I have had these about a month now and I believe I have thoroughly tested them to the best of my ability.
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Pros:
Nice thick cable that can but bumped around a lot without taking damage. I tested this to the point of purposely closing them in doors, jerking them out of sockets, and even played tug of war with my 7-year-old son. The cable in question is still performing admirably.

Good length; they are just shy of 3 foot in length. Long enough to reach from most wall sockets to comfortably setting on a desk plugged into a phone or laptop. Not too long that they are cumbersome and in the way.

Cons:
Nothing really to mention specifically. Out of the box you have to really work the cables to get them to roll up or not gradually pull a phone off the desk. After a bit of use they are good to go.

Final Thoughts:
For the price and quantity (you get three!) I really think this is a great solution for a typical user needs.

AUKEY USB C Hub

AUKEY USB C Hub

It seems I am always in need of more USB ports, no matter what device or how I try and consolidate.   This port replicator does a pretty superior job in delivering the additional ports without compromising the speed of the bus.

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The packaging from Aukey I actually always enjoy, and I know this is trivial to most folks, but they don’t wait space.   There isn’t a huge box with a ton of insulation material and what not, it is a small simple recycled cardboard box with just enough space for the device.  I know this is saving them money which is the main reason for them using it, but as a person who buys and receives a number of devices, items, and gizmo’s I appreciate it.

Now the device itself was built Okay, however it is nothing to write home about.   The construction was lighter than I like in a device, but some could argue that is the point.  I still like feeling weight to an object because weight always means things are built stronger right…  (kidding).   Anyway after a month of use this little hub is still holding up well.   I cycle the connections daily as I plug it in to the computer, throw on my hard drives and phone, work all day, then disconnect everything to toss in the backpack.

The sockets still have a very positive connection without any sign of aging or wear, and the speed of the data transfers are unwavering.  Really the slowest part of that whole transfer is probably the bus speed on the laptop.

For the $15 price tag this is much better than the Belkin I previously purchased and it a little more usable for me.

AUKEY Optic Pro

I have been testing out this AUKEY lens on my LG V10 and I really have mixed feelings about it.

Packaging:

First the box and packaging of the lens suited my sensibility well since it was secure yet without a lot of superfluous boxes, material, and wasted space.  Everything in the description of the lens came with mine in very good condition (as you would expect since it is new).   My first complaint is here though, since the lens cover (rubber) does not fit the lens well and will fall off.  Additionally, it is so tight shallow the lens itself will rub the inside of the cover and if it isn’t clean you will get scratches.   Personally I think the side wall of the lens cover should be doubled in height.  The pouch and wipe are adequate for the price and use of the lens.

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Installation:

I have a Body Glove case on the LG V10, however with the way the camera protrudes from the back there isn’t any interference with the case itself.   The alignment is hyper-critical on the lens though, anything less than perfect will lead to suboptimal and blurry pictures.  I really cannot stress this enough, as it usually takes about 10-15 seconds to properly align it each time I put it on the phone, and sometimes after it is already on the phone since it can move slightly.  The foam base of the lens sat well on my cameras surface without marking it up in the least (solid plus there).  I do feel the clip that secures the lens to the phone seems a little flimsy but it hasn’t failed yet with about 20-25 installs on various phones.

Photos:

Once I had the lens positioned correct on the phone I went out for a little walk and took a few photos.  At first I had a little difficulty getting the camera to focus correctly, so I flipped over to manual mode, which helped tremendously.   I later really examined my lens placement and found it was off just a bit to the left, which I corrected and auto focus worked out Okay.   The Panorama shots I really enjoyed because you can capture your whole view with only a few movements.  I do have to complain (and it is really the nature of this design not Aukey’s Fault) but anything but the focal point will become increasingly blurrier as you move to the outside of the frame.   This does offer a good “cheap” solution to fish eye or wide angle shots without dropping the big bucks on a real camera.

Conclusion:

This is a solid product that generally works about as well as one could hope.   The lens itself seems to be of solid construction without any major flaws in build quality.  There are a few things I would change which are mentioned above, but if you are looking for a wide angle lens or “fisheye” for your mobile this isn’t a bad way to go.  This is my own opinion with no brand influence.

 

Sample Images:

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Puşcă Semiautomată cu Lunetă

No it’s not a spam post, it is the actual name of this rifle, “Semi-Automatic Rifle with Scope?”  Generally this is an over sized AK (kinda) in 7.62x54r which is the same round you fire out of the Mosin 91/30 or M44.  There are a number of names this goes by over here; PSL, FPK, Dragonuv, ROMAC-3, etc.  All of those actually are a little different but lets start with we actually have.
Per the Receiver this is a FPK Dragonuv *Spoilers* It’s not *Spoilers*, Made in Romania via TGI in Knoxville TN.
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Now do the proper research here is what we are actually looking at.  A Romanian PSL receiver imported and put together with milsurp parts at TGI in Knoxville TN.  This is know by what the stamping is and where it is located.   This information was gleaned from http://www.designatedmarksman.net/romanian_psl.html.
Personally I think this is the second best configuration coming behind the Cigur Arsenal built rifle, but that is me and I haven’t got to send anything down range with this yet either.
Anyway enough talk, here are a few pictures.
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Probably going to bust out the heater Saturday and clean up that wood.  Then a little Amber shellac as the stock is wearing thin.

Knife Sheath Part 2

Well I let it dry all night and most of the day until after work.  Now time to finish it up. 

So first I pulled all the everything apart to make sure it was dry, which it was, but my plastic wrap leaked…  The tip rusted a bit…

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Not to worry hit it with a little oil and steel wool and it will just be character. 

So using the contact cement I glued the strip the the main sheath body.  Then on with the clamps.

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That took longer than expected, about 25 minutes.  To me that means I either needed to get the contact cement more tacky before putting the pieces together or I applied too much.  Either way it is together.

I need a belt loop so time to get that going with contact cement as well. 

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And put a tiny dab in the back side to find where to paint the rest.

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And back to The Clamps!

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Wunderbar.

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But needs some more strength; time to sew.   I could use the punches but I was feeling lazy and I had a 1/16 drill bit…

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I didn’t do too much special just went around twice to make sure it will last.   This is a wear point and I wanted to make sure it would last.

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Getting there.

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Back to the drill and 1/16 bit and thread.

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I am using what I think is called a double saddle stitch.   It uses two needles weaving from right to left with needle 1 and then left to right with needle 2 in the same hole.   This makes strong stitches on both sides of the leather.  Also I doubled the first four stitches as that is the main wear point of the knife sliding in and out.  Anyway all was going well but oh no my three times the length didn’t work out and left me short…  Oh well back sew it a few holes, tie it off, and a quick lighter to nylon thread. 

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Well add another 1.5-2ish lengths and got it finished. 

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Oh and it is a good fit.

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Since it is leather I figured I ought to give it a little polish to keep it nice.

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Don’t mind the fat guy but I think it came out okay.  The lessons learned is that stitching is a pain and is needs to be done right.  Punching the holes is better than the drill because you can keep the holes at a 90 degree easier. 

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First attempt at anything leather wasn’t a total waste and I’ll be using this well until it wears out.   Hopefully I can get some more practice in the near future. 

Knife Sheath Part 1

Well I have never tried this but with all the knives I figured I should take on a little leather working.  I am sure you smart folks can tell me what I am doing wrong and hopefully how to fix it but here’s what I got.

Started with my new 4″ Morakniv and I traced a loose template on paper.

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I had a few scraps of leather to choose from but went for the easiest piece with a nice grain. 

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I traced the template on the leather and then cut it out. 

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I needed to find center, which was just over 2.5″, to remove a little material so it will fold over the knife well.

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Now the way I see it you cannot very well fold over the leather and see them together as it would be too tight.  So I added a scrap strip on the edge that will fit in the fold.  This will also help with the blade of the knife not coming in contact with the thread.  (I think.).

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Add the belt loop, which I am going to sew through the back of the sheath onto itself.

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Now I think I have all the pieces I’ll need. 

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Sheath leather needs a a little soak so I can form it around the knife (now is plastic wrap to keep the moisture off it).

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So I thought I could just fold it over and rub the contours with that newly shaped walnut cone, but it wasn’t that easy. 

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So I got out some wood blocks, clamps, and flat pieces of steel to keep it all together in the angle and dimension I want.  Then I rubbed all the contours as much as I could (yes my arm started hurting) and left it to dry over night.   Part 2 should be coming tomorrow night and we will see how it turns out.  

4 Inch Morakniv

I did a thing! Tested out some ideas with black walnut and a scrap of aluminum. The hole didn’t square well by hand (drill press next time), and honestly I rushed this. I hadn’t even thought about finishing it tonight but I couldn’t leave well enough alone.

My SOG Slim XL for scale.

know what to do the the rest of them now though which is a plus and this will give me the first platform to test out some of my leather-working skills (newly founded).   I am sure it will be an abysmal failure.

Knives anyone?

So typically I either post Firearms or Food, both things near and dear to my hear, however I have a new “hobby” to share; Knives.   For Christmas and my birthday my wife purchased a number of blades in need of handles.   So I have a project.
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I believe that is a Morakniv (Swedish) 4″ and 6″ blade in the white package and 11″ Damascus steel Bowie knife (kind) blade on bottom.

Here is a better picture of the layers in my bear paw.
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I am toying with a couple ideas for wood.  Currently I have black walnut, oak, and cherry at my disposal.  I think the two smaller Morakniv hidden tang knives will get the black walnut, but might go exotic for the Damascus thing.
Will update when I have a better idea.

Savage Hog Hunter Part 2

Well I dislike that Weaver I had on there, and honestly it was way too much scope for the rifle.   So enter the Redfield Revolution 4-12×42 AccuRange with some Burris Signature Zee 1″ Medium Rings.

I do get the boresight on there, however I haven’t had a chance to go out to test this setup out yet.

I think I should be on paper pretty well, but who knows. Also while I have the Boyd’s stock to put on it, one of the action screws is stuck and I broke my allen trying to get it out.